Highway 20 in Washington – Amazing !

Posted on August 31, 2011 by greg

Squamish, British Columbia to Twisp Washington

Waking up early to cool air and grey skies in Squamish BC, I decided to get an early start and head south. Breaking camp was easy and I quickly had the bike packed and ready, I just really needed a shower, which the campground provided.

Returning from the shower I hear a voice calling me “Would you like a coffee?” It was my new neighbour across from my tent at the campground. Being the friendly guy that I am and not one to refuse a free coffee I took him up on his offer.  My new neighbour, Trevor, was as tall as he was round, had bright red hair and a black cat named Coal. The coffee was good and the conversation soon turned to hockey. I told him about my prize possession, a personalized autographed jersey from Vladislov Tretiak, so much for my early start. After 90 minutes of talking hockey I managed to get on the bike and head for the USA. Trevor as a local guy and gave me great directions to the quickest crossing. The quickest crossing turned out to take one hour and fifteen minutes.

Once across into the US I start down Interstate #5 and decided to head for highway 20 towards Coeur D’Alene in Idaho (one of the 1000 Places I should see before I die). Highway 20 was an amazing ride! It had twists and turns, tunnels and bridges, over the mountains, through the valleys, past rivers and lakes and best of all, not a cop in sight. My heart was racing from the excitement of this road! The sun was shining, there was no rain and also no traffic, most of the time I had the road to myself, all 226 kilometers (141 miles) of it. I did not want it to end, but sadly all good things must, and I finished with Ice Cream and motorcycle conversation in a town called Windthrop Washington. Windthrop is set up like a western saloon style town and I was not sure if I should park my bike or tie it to a post like a trusty old steed.  The only thing slowing me down was a fake police car with two dummies inside.This is a road my Harley friend David would have loved, and if he as here, I would have rode it faster.

I am over budget so I continued to Twisp and found a cheap Motel and even cheaper wine (The Glenlivet is out of my price range for a while). I would have camped tonight but I lost my pillow and when you have a neck like mine, pillows are important. There is an outdoor store in Twisp, maybe they have inflatable pillows.

Links

The greatest goalie of all time, and my hero, Valdislov Tertiak http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vladislav_Tretiak

A cool little town in Washington State – Windthrop http://www.winthropwashington.com/directions.html

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Last Night in Canada

Posted on August 30, 2011 by greg

Tonight night will be the last night that I spend in Canada for a long time. I will leave in the morning from Squamish BC and continue  south, until I reach Ushuaia, Argentina. My plan is to zip zag through the western United States until I reach Mexico. I don’t have a defined route, I use www.motorcycleroads.com and the book “1000 Places to see before you Die” as my guides (and no I am not dying). As long as I am south of where I was the night before, I will eventually reach Ushuaia, Argentina.

I spent the last couple of days in Squamish British Columbia and did very little riding. I took the time to do some hiking around Shannon Falls, explored the town on foot, relaxed with a book around my campsite and ran a few last minute errands in Vancouver. I did some riding and the roads here, highway 99 is lots of fun, the Cassiar was a great road, just watch out for the bears!

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Miracle on 3rd Ave

Posted on August 27, 2011 by greg

I believe that I have experienced a miracle, let me share with you my story.

I was heading along the Alaskan Highway back towards Whitehorse, enjoying the roller coaster style road created by the frost heaves.  Suddenly a pot hole the size of small car appeared in the road before me. I had no time to move out of the way and hit the pothole at full speed, hitting the pot hole with such force that it was only through the grace of God that I was able to keep the bike upright. I pulled over to the side of the highway to inspect the motorcycle. It was not leaking fluid, the tires were not flat, there was no visible damage, however, it now sounded like a Harley. I obviously damaged the exhaust, but other than minor exhaust damage the bike was still running perfectly.  This friends, is not the miracle!

Once I got near a telephone I called Carter Motorsports in Vancouver and made a service appointment for Friday, I was then transferred to parts to see about tires.  I needed new tires anyway; it was time for an oil change and now the exhaust. I spoke to a very helpful guy in parts and was able to secure me the tires I wanted and I asked him to also speak to Service to confirm that I would be changing tires on Friday as well.

Now, for us in North America I think we would all agree “service” is either lacking or non-existent in most businesses.  It does not seem to matter if your drive a Honda, a Harley, a BMW, a Ford or Lexus. It does not seem to matter if you are staying in an expensive hotel or at the Super 8, fine dining or McDonalds, service in North America and in particular Canada leaves much to be desired.  

I arrived at Carter Motorsports and was greeted by Sarah in service, who I must say, is very easy on the eyes. I introduced myself, explained that I had a 9am appointment and waited while she checked her computer. This is when the miracle occurred! The Parts department had spoken to the Service department! Service was aware of my issues, the tires were ready, the exhaust issue was documented and they were ready for me! Sarah began asking informed; intelligent questions about my issues so that she could get all the details that the technicians would require. Sarah had patience; I was getting service, being treated like a customer. Another service advisor, Miles, came by and introduced himself, just for the sake of being friendly. Wow, how often does that happen?

I was asked to come back in two hours while they worked on my bike. I explained to Sarah and Miles about my journey and asked for the bike to be given a full inspection.  Two hours later I returned to the service department to find that the tires were already on, I needed new rear brakes and the parts were in stock but the gaskets needed for my exhaust were not in stock. Miles and Sarah were both working super hard to source these gaskets and we agreed that I would come back in the morning. Miles assured me they would find a solution.

Another miracle! When I returned in the morning not only was my motorcycle ready, in perfect running order, but there was Miles, washing my motorcycle. By the time Miles was done it looked as if it has been professionally detailed, I could have served a meal off the wheels, licked the engine without fear of getting sick.

It felt great to be treated like a real customer and to have all of my issues resolved.  I cannot say enough positive things about my experience at Carter Motorsports.

I have decided to relax in Squamish BC for a couple of days while I plan my route through US towards Mexico.

Links

www.cartermotorsports.com  If you are in British Columbia and need motorcycle service, call Carter Motorsports 604-736-4547, 1502 West 3rd Ave, Vancouver BC.

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Three Bears on the Cassiar

Posted on August 24, 2011 by greg

Quotes about Bears

“The rule about bears is their unpredictability.”
– Anonymous

“I don’t have to run faster than a Bear, I only have to run faster than you” – Me (Greg Powell) on my first and LAST date hiking in Algonquin Park with a woman – who will remain unnamed.

Yesterday I started heading south down the Cassiar Highway in northern British Columbia. A fun road to ride with its roller-coaster hills, sharp turns and surrounded by dense forest.  While coming over the crest of one of the rollercoaster hills I spotted my first bear on this highway, it was a small black bear cub playing in the roadway. Noticing the motorcycle he quickly darted off into the forest and most likely closer to Mama Bear. I did not try and get a photo as I know Mama Bear would not have approved.

Stopping for the night I was determined to get an early start and continue my way south. The skies were clear and I figured I could make good time today. The rain had other plans for me and kept moving in and out until I finally had enough and decided to stop and put my rain get on. Having just stopped for coffee a few minutes before I also needed to use the restroom and took advantage of one of Rest Area’s offered along the highway.  Returning to my bike after answering natures call, I started to undo my bag straps and retrieve my rain gear; thinking about how the rain has been affecting my mood. Four days of cold rain and I am starting to feel annoyed and irritable, emotions I have not felt since starting my adventure. Just as I undid the first strap I looked up from the task at hand only to discover a bear walking straight towards me from the other end of the Rest Area. The rain gear can wait, he was big, I took off down the highway. I don’t think he was interested in me, but I was not sticking around to find out.

After 53 kilometers there was another rest stop and I was able to put my rain gear on, but it was too late. I was wet, cold and getting miserable. Memories turned to two couples I know back in Ontario, John and Susan, and Max and Olga, who no matter what the circumstances always seem to be positive. What did I have to be miserable about? The weather? Cheer up the weather will change. I am on the adventure of a lifetime!

I slow down and turn off the Cassiar and onto highway 16 heading towards Prince George BC. An abandon building is on my left and on the right hand side of the road is a black object, not moving and seems out of place at the roadside. Suddenly a black bear raises his head, looks right at me and with amazing agility, jumps into the road way. I have a bear right in front of me, staring at me, only 20 meters away.  As I begin to slow down the bear decides to cross the road. Not wanting to be stopped in the roadway I accelerate and pass behind the bear. My heart was racing but I couldn’t help but feel a rush of adrenaline and thought to myself “That was cool”.

No time for photos of the bears. Deciding to stop in Smithers BC and dry out, I found a hotel and called it a night. As soon as I paid for my room the rain stopped. I am starting the day tomorrow with full rain gear on; expect sunshine in Prince George.

 

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Travelling Solo

Posted on August 23, 2011 by greg

Tomorrow will make one month that I have been travelling solo and I often get asked “Do you get lonely?”.  Although I do miss my friends and family and think of them often I can honestly answer that “No, I don’t get lonely”.

It is hard to get lonely with wifi available everywhere so I can skype and read e-mails from my friends and family. It is also hard to get lonely when you meet so many interesting people. It seems that interesting people are everywhere if you just take the time to start and conversation.

On my way to Alaska in while camping in northern Alberta I met a father and son from Winnipeg Manitoba, travelling across Canada by car. The son had just got his drivers license and they were taking a road trip so he could learn to drive. What a bonding experience they will have and by the time it is over the son will be the best new driver in Manitoba.  I was too into my own adventure to think of getting their contact details.

A few days later I met Isaac, a Mexican guy who flew himself and his bicycle to Alaska and is now riding to Argentina. I pass a lot of people on bicycle and can’t help but admire their endurance. Isaac has a real passion for bicycling and for adventure. Also travelling alone we had much in common and lots to share. Unfortunately he was heading south and I was heading north, and we travel and much different speeds. Now that I am heading south I am going to try and meet up with him again. Check out his blog at http://www.2wheeldream.com/

About a week after meeting Isaac, while in the Yukon, I met another father and son team from San Francisco. These two were riding vintage motorcycles and were on their way back from Alaska. I was able to ask Denis and Dominic about the road conditions and other interesting places to visit. They were very helpful. This time I got their contact details, turns out they have a real passion for vintage bikes, check out their web site at http://www.sfvintagecycle.com/  I will definitely stop by this place when I get to California.

I made my way to Homer Alaska and that is where I me Jane Rose. Jane is a retired librarian who is now travelling in her van, solo. I almost had her convinced to come to Prudhoe Bay with me. She would take her van and me on the bike. Unfortunately, there were flaws in our plan and Jane had to back out. You can read about this and her other adventures on her website at http://www.datatamata.com/  

When I stopped in Coldfoot AK, going north to Prudhoe Bay, I was lucky enough to meet Hilton and Tony. Long time riding buddies, Hilton from Texas and Tony from New Zealand, these guys were great fun and I ended up spending the next four days with them, riding to Prudhoe and back to Fairbanks. Check out their blog at http://greatarcticadventure.wordpress.com/

Stopping in Coldfoot on the way back from Prudhoe Bay, Hilton, Tony and I met Kevin. Kevin had flown his bike from Australia to Alaska and was also riding to Argentina. We had great laughs while trying to decipher each other’s accent. Kevin and I were both camping that night and when I visited Kevin’s campsite he was quite excited to tell me that just ten minutes earlier he had seen his first bear. The bear had been spotted near my campsite so needless to say I was not as excited. Check out his blog at http://exploreplanetearth.net/

And just last night I dinner with another motorcyclist I met here at the Motel. Doug was riding with a group but due to a necessary clutch repair on his BMW GS, he had to separate from his friends. He is also riding to Argentina later this year. I am still waiting for the link to his blog and will share it with you when I get it.

I have also met many other people without blogs but with interesting stories. Like my cute Alaskan waitress who shot a seven foot Grizzly Bear back in the spring, or Iris and Sean with their pet rat, and who can forget the Russian girls in Anchorage, or Bruce and Lena who took me in and treated me like family.

So, it is hard to get lonely when I am rarely alone and when I have so many interesting people to talk to.

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Something is not right!

Posted on August 22, 2011 by greg

I woke up in Beaver Creek to beautiful sunshine and clear skies ready to hit the road. For reasons not important here, I decided to head south instead of north to Dawson City as I had been thinking of doing. I don’t like riding the same road twice but the Alaskan highway southbound offered as much beauty as it did northbound.

Once I got a little south of Haines Junction I started to get a feeling that “something is not right”. The bike was running well; mirror check told me that my bags were tied on ok. Can’t shake this feeling. I locked the throttle so I could check all of my pockets, camera, wallet, passport – CHECK. Ok important stuff is with me, what the hell is this feeling.

Not sure why, but I reach directly behind me. I can’t feel my extra gas can that I have been carrying since Prudhoe Bay. I know I tied it on really well back in Beaver Creek. Oh oh, that means I have straps flapping around that could get caught in my chain. I quickly pulled over. Inspected the bike and realized that the gas can had been stolen. My straps were still there, but not tied in the way I would have done it, they are tied on as if a moron had done it. A cluster of loose straps, not the way an anal accountant like me would have tied them on.  

My gas can has been stolen! But from where? Think back, the bike was only out of my sight twice. The first time was at Burwash Landing when I stopped at the Kluane Museum of Natural History to see if it was worth a visit, it was not. I was away from my bike for 5 minutes. Second time, I stopped for lunch at Haines Junction, right across from the RCMP station.

The gas can cost $7.49, the straps holding them on cost $10 each, there were binoculars, a laptop and other valuable things on my bike yet some moron took the time to steal the empty gas can and tie the straps back on. What a risk he took! I just came back from Alaska where I purchased Bear repellant spray and would have used it on a thief without a second thought and laughed while he cried like a little girl from the pain.

 The real sad part is that I was going to give this gas can away as I no longer needed it. I was going to give it to the next biker I saw going north.  It bothers me that this happened in Canada, a place with ample social programs and where nobody goes without the things they need. I have travelled extensively and this was the first time that I have been stolen from. I once left the key in my motorcycle for two days in Vietnam while I went on a tour, the bike was never touched. In Cambodia while taking a tour of a floating village I left my bike unattended with over $2,000 cash in a backpack tied on the bike, it was never touched. While in Iran, the “axis of evil” I never gave my safety a second thought.

Oh well, what goes around comes around and one day the thief will get his just rewards. As for me, the adventure continues. I am now relaxing at the Yukon Motel in Teslin Yukon, where I was greeted by a very pleasant and helpful Filipina lady who listened to my woes with a sympathetic ear.  She brought me ice for my drink, told me she was married and wished me goodnight.

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The Journey to Prudhoe

Posted on August 20, 2011 by greg

Aug 16th

Waking up to beautiful sunshine and clear skies had never made me happier, I was about to tackle the Dalton Highway.  The Dalton Highway is 415 miles (668 kilometers) straight north past the Arctic Circle ending at the Arctic Ocean, you can’t get any further north than this!

The first 120 kilometers were easy, a nicely paved highway, then the road turned to gravel and eventually mud.  My bike started to wobble shortly after the mud started and I thought it might go down, but I pulled out of it ok and eventually hit hard gravel roads again. It was smooth sailing to the Yukon River where I stopped to warm up and get some fuel. It was not long before I reached the Arctic Circle where I stopped to rest and get a photo of me and my bike at the Arctic Circle sign.

The highway presented challenges but I eventually made it safely to Coldfoot, representing the halfway point. I was tempted to push on to the end of the road, the weather was favourable and it was still early enough in the day that I could make it. It was in Coldfoot that I met Hilton and Tony, riding BMW’s also on their way to Prudhoe. Tony had broken the shock on his bike just minutes earlier but was determined to reach Prudhoe. For Tony, Prudhoe is the “Holy Grail” of motorcycle destinations, and I have to agree. We agreed to ride together the remainder of the distance together in the morning.

Aug 17

Waking up early and a bit cold at my camp site I was still very excited about the ride in front of me. Excited and nervous at the same time. None of us had any idea how the road ahead would be, we had heard mixed reports. The road did provide its challenges, but still allowed us to safely stop and take some amazing photos. We crossed a mountain pass that I thought would never end, and when it did so did the tree line. We were now in the tundra. Construction was out biggest obstacle on this part of the highway, loose sand and rocks the size of your fist were being compacted to repair the road. The closer to Prudhoe we got the colder it became, and then the rain started making me even colder. The rain did stop, 20 minutes after I put on my rain jacket but I was enjoying the extra warmth and was not going to take it off.   The last 100 kilometers were the coldest, and it was here that it looked as if we would ride right into the sky.

We reached the “Holy Grail” of motorcycle destinations, Prudhoe Bay. Cold, tired, low on fuel but excited that I had achieved another milestone, the most northern point I could ride. Checking into the Prudhoe Bay hotel where for $150 you get a decent room and all the food you can eat, and the food was fantastic.

Aug 18

The three of us had our own tour of the oil fields in the morning where we were given an explanation of the history and current situation of the oil projects. The best part of the whole tour was the opportunity to dip our toes in the Arctic Ocean.

Back on the road heading south, in weather of 36F. Tony left a bit earlier as bike was much slower without the rear shock while Hilton and I took the opportunity to take some great photos while making good time. We photographed Muskox, Sheep, the Alaska Pipeline and unbelievable mountain ranges. The road provided the same challenges and was no easier the second time around.

Making it to Coldfoot safely but tired the three of us enjoyed a beer or two (ok four). I pitched my tent in the same campground as I did on the way up. Immediately after my tent was up, my neighbour came over and showed me a video of a Grizzly walking around the campground. I slpt that night holding my bear spray.

Aug 19

Waking up to the coldest night I have ever spent in a tent was not a lot of fun. There was frost on everything and my hands were numb from packing up my things. This last stretch of road seemed to be the easiest. I think because I was more familiar with the conditions but mainly due to the lack of rain. Hilton had damaged his rear fender on the ride out and I met up with both guys at the BMW dealership. Fortunately for me my bike came out unscathed.

This was the most amazing ride I have ever done!

Aug 20

Check out Hilton and Tony’s web site at http://greatarcticadventure.wordpress.com/ . We are heading different directions today but I hope we can ride together again in the future. I am adding Hilton’s house in Austin Texas to my list of destinations when I head south, and if I am lucky enough, Tony’s place in New Zealand.

The Dalton can be a dangerous road. Here is an article of a tragic accident that happened just a week or so before I made my journey. http://www.thenewstribune.com/2011/08/09/1776480/motorcycle-riding-tourist-dies.html

As much as I love Alaska it is time to head south. Argentina here I come!

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Prudhoe Bay, Alaska

Posted on August 19, 2011 by greg

I made it to Prudhoe Bay on August 17th  and dipped my finger in the Arctic Ocean. What an amazing adventure. More stories and photos will follow after I do some celebrating and get some rest.

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Into the Wild

Posted on August 15, 2011 by greg

One of the most famous stories about Alaska is the story of Chris McCandless and both a book and a movie were written about his story. The bus in which Chris died has been moved from its remote location in the woods to the 49th State Brewing Company in Denali Park. A young woman died while trying to hike to the bus and the owners of the 49th State Brewing Company decided that something had to be done. Admission is free.

I will be spending the next couple of day preparing for my ride to Prudhoe Bay.

Links

The story of Chris McCandless http://www.christophermccandless.info/bio.html  Here is the link to the movie http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0758758/ and the book  http://www.amazon.ca/Into-Wild-Jon-Krakauer/dp/0385486804

The 49th State Brewing Company is a great place to eat and enjoy a few drinks with friends. The “Into the Wild” bus is now on display the http://49statebrewing.com/

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Anchorage

Posted on August 15, 2011 by greg

Anchorage has been one of the greatest stops on this adventure of mine.  Through a former work contact, I was able to meet some truly great people. Great people, who gave me fantastic information on Alaska, opened their home to me and treated me like family.  I was even extra fortunate to be treated to a great tour of the city by two beautiful Russian women, a highlight of my adventure for sure.  Anchorage is a beautiful city with a lot to offer.

All good things must come to an end and I was eventually on the highway heading north towards Prudhoe Bay. The coolest thing happened on the way north, my odometer turned to 30,000 kilometers.  This change happened right in from of “Gorilla Fireworks” in Huston Alaska, a fitting place.

The weather co-operated long enough for me to get some great photos of the Denali mountain range and enjoy one of the most scenic roads in Alaska before stopping for the night.

Links

There is so much to see and do in Anchorage that you could spend months here and not get it all done. I will definitely be coming back.  http://www.anchorage.net/

I just arrived in Denali Park and will be spending the night at The White Moose Lodge.  Located just off the highway this might be a great place for wildlife viewing.  The best part so far has been

that the owner gave me a bucket and a couple of clean rags to wash my bike with. http://whitemooselodge.com/

 

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