Mexico – Day 2

Posted on October 4, 2011 by greg

I know how much people love stories of danger and chaos; I wish I had one for you. Day two in Mexico was overall pretty boring. The roads were for the most part well maintained with only a few areas needing attention. The speed bumps and the toll bridges get a bit annoying after a while but there is not much I can do about that. I rode for until I came to the beach in Veracruz, found a hotel near the water and called it a day. I plan on taking tomorrow off so I can go swim in the Gulf of Mexico.

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Crossing into Mexico

Posted on October 3, 2011 by greg

I woke up extra early this morning in preparation to cross into Mexico. Given all of the stories that I have heard about Mexico I was nervous about making the trip and there have been times I considered not going at all.  I pushed those concerns aside after reading blogs from people either already in Mexico or who have safely passed through. After a sleepless night or two I decided to go.

After packing the bike and getting my paperwork ready I removed from my tank bag a bracelet that I have been carrying. This beaded bracelet is from a Chinese temple high in the mountains and was given to me by someone who trekked up the mountain specifically to bring me a good luck. I slipped the bracelet on my wrist, started the bike and headed for Mexico.

The customs at the border was easy enough but it did take an hour and a half to complete. First there was passport control, then permission for the motorcycle, back to passport control who then sent me back to pay the motorcycle deposit, make copies, check the VIN on the bike and back to passport control. It was easy enough, just time consuming.  With documents in order I was off and heading for Tampico. I wanted to put some distance between me and the border on the first day, no stopping, no photos, no lunch, just keep going and stop only for gas.

Just 1 kilometer past the border and I witnessed a minor accident, and it was blocking my route. Two women get out of their respective vehicles and start shouting at each other. I just want to get going and started to look for an alternate route, when I am approached by a man wearing a uniform and a badge; he was with the “Tourist Police”. “My name is Jimmy, it’s my job to help you. Where are you going” he said to me.  I told him that I am going to Tampico today and then continuing south.  “Let me guide you to the highway, away from this trouble” he said pointing to the accident. “Let me get on you moto”.  I really did not want him to get on my motorcycle but I thought I had little choice, I wanted away from the accident argument that was getting more and more heated. So the little fat man got on my motorcycle and started to guide me around the accident.  The motorcycle handled the extra weight ok and after about 10 minutes I saw a sign for the highway I needed.  I felt relieved and did not mind giving Jimmy the “tip” he asked for, $20 in total.

Another 35 kilometers down the road and there was a road block by the “Policia Federal” and I thought for sure that I would be shaken down for money, given their reputation. The “Policia Federal” officer who approached me was a big guy, kind of fat, expressionless and carrying a M16.  He extended his hand and as we shook hands, he smiled. Our conversation went like this; (pardon my poor Spanish spelling and grammar)

Policia;  A donde vas Amigo? (where are you going my friend)

Me:        Argentina

Policia;  Viajar solo? (travelling alone)

Me:        si solo.

Policia;  por que solo? (why alone)

Me:        mi amigos no loco  (I have no crazy friends)

He suddenly burst out laughing, a real loud and hardy laugh that drew the attention of other officers. Another officer approached us and the first officer told him what I said. The second officer laughed a little and went back to his duties, I guess not as funny to him. The first officer continued to make small talk about my motorcycle and our respective families and after about 5 minutes he finally said “Enjoy your time in Mexico”. No money was solicited.

I continued heading south on a relatively quiet and uneventful highway. After 100 kilometers another road block, this one was border patrol and customs. I showed my passport and was then sent to customs. I was the only vehicle so I had all three customs agents around me looking at the bike and speaking to each other in Spanish. They asked for my vehicle import papers, made small talk about my trip and my bike and sent me on my way with a “Welcome to Mexico” and three agents waving as I drove off.  No money was solicited.

As I continued south the landscape became much greener and much more beautiful than the dry areas near the border. I wanted to take some photos but decided to stick with my plan of putting as much distance between me and the border as possible.  I now regret not taking a photo of the “Tropic of Cancer” sign, but I am not going back. I encountered some construction and a few extra wide loads that took up all lanes, but nothing worth writing about.

I was getting a bit tired and hungry when I saw a road sign “Tampico 30km”, I was relieved. As I came over the crest of a small hill there was another “Policia Federal” patrol car and I was being waved to stop. I was greeted with a smile, asked for my vehicle import documents and driver’s license. We engaged in more small talk about the motorcycle, my trip and how lucky I was not to have a wife, then I was sent on my way again. No money was solicited.

I arrived in Tampico and started to make my way towards the beach. The traffic became surprisingly heavy so I decided to stop at the next reputable hotel. I am now enjoying a Glenlivet and planning tomorrows ride.

share the road

share the road

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The Great State of Texas

Posted on October 2, 2011 by greg

I am now sitting in Brownsville Texas, four miles from the Mexican border and thinking back over the time I spent in Texas. I spent a lot more time in Texas than I planned on and don’t regret a minute of it.

I entered Texas from New Mexico on one of the longest and most boring drives of this adventure expecting to see longhorn cattle, big 10 gallon cowboy hats and oil rigs everywhere.  I did see a few oil rigs, very few cowboy hats and not a single longhorn. Apparently the longhorns are now long raised for show. Texas is experiencing record low rainfall so my entire journey was very very dry and brown.

There were a few firsts for me on this trip in Texas;  1. I saw an Armadillo and caught it by the tail. 2 I rode a mechanical bull, 3. I joined a motorcycle club (The Road Rockers), 4. Got really really drunk for the first time on this adventure and finally 5. I spent 6 nights in the same bed.  I have been called “Sir” more times in Texas than all the previous states combined. Texas is great, Texans are great.

After leaving my friends place near Austin I headed south and spent the night in a small coastal town called Rockport. There were lots of shore birds, beautiful homes, great food and best of all a cool breeze. After putting up with 100F in Austin a cool breeze was a welcome change.

From Rockport I continued on to Corpus Christi. I stopped here just long enough to take a few pictures of an aircraft carrier. Corpus looks like it would be a fun beach city to come back and see sometime. Continuing south the stopped in South Padre Island, this place was cool and I regret not doing more research on this place before. I could easily have spent a few days here with its great beaches, cheap hotels, shopping and all sorts of water sports. Unfortunately my insurance for Mexico starts already and does not last forever, so I moved on closer to the border where I could focus more.

I now have to prepare to enter Mexico, sort paperwork, print a few extra copies and other minor details. I am nervous and excited at the same time.

See my Texas route here  http://www.spotadventures.com/trip/view?trip_id=281120

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Texas Friendly

Posted on October 1, 2011 by greg

That’s whut i’m talkn’ bout

coyote ugly

coyote ugly

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I Tell You Whut

Posted on September 29, 2011 by greg

After arriving in Texas I followed the Rio Grand Rive to Del Rio Texas and stopped for the night where I camped just outside of town. The campsite was overrun with deer and at one point I counted 14 deer walking through the campground.  It was so hot outside that sleeping was difficult and I slept on top of my sleeping bag with the tent flaps open, fortunately there was nobody else around.

I eventually made it to Kyle Texas where the bike was going to be serviced and I would reconnect with a fellow motorcyclist that I met while riding to Prudhoe Bay. Once in Kyle things started to change. It seems that the local Honda dealer is having trouble ordering the brake pads that I need, despite the fact that I gave them not only the part numbers from Honda but the name and part numbers from an after market dealer as well. Now I play the waiting game.

While waiting for my parts to arrive I joined a local motorcycle club, the Road Rockers. The Road Rockers are a group of local Harley riders who promised to show me a good ol’ fashioned Texas friendly good time. The first order of business was a club meeting to be held at a place called Twin Peaks http://www.twinpeaksrestaurant.com/ the good ol’ fashioned good time has started. After a hardy meal and some great views, “We Ride”.  The first order of riding business was to show me some interesting sites in Texas. One of the first places was Lukenbach, a town made famous by a good ol’ country song. In Lukenbach I was a somebody, because “everybody is a somebody in Lukenbach”. The great rides in Texas continued for the past few days and I have seen a great deal of the real Texas.

The next order of business was to work on my English. I have had to learn things like “I tell you whut”, “gawd dang”, “gum dad” and of course “yaw’all”. I was kicked out of grade 9 French so languages don’t come easily for me, but I am getting the hang of this Texan language.

Tonight was the final initiation, I had to catch an Armadillo (or “Armadilla” as they say in Texas) by the tail. I have never seen an Armadillo before and fortunately right after dinner I spotted one outside the restaurant. Much faster than I expected he easily got away. A short distance away another one, so I took off after him. This one was mine, he was not getting away not matter what. I chased him down, through the field and along the fence until finally his tail was in reach. I lunged forward and grabbed his tail. The Armadillo was more powerful than I thought and he started to claw his way under the fence, eventually breaking free. Assuming my membership into the Road Rockers would not be accepted I went home in defeat. However, once at home I checked my computer and found an acceptance e-mail welcoming me into the Road Rockers. I tell you whut I was some gum dad excited.

My Honda pats should arrive on Friday, while I wait another trip to Twin Peaks is in order.

Links

Luckenbach Texas http://www.luckenbachtexas.com/

Luckenbach song lyrics http://www.cowboylyrics.com/lyrics/jennings-waylon/luckenbach-texas-13118.html

Armadillo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Armadillo

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Some additional photos from the last two months

Posted on September 24, 2011 by greg
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Two Months of Solo Travel

Posted on September 24, 2011 by greg

September 24, 2011

Today makes two months of Solo Travel, 9665 kilometers, 16 US States, 4 Canadian Provinces and one great adventure. I have lived more in the past two months than I have in the last 40 years and feel more alive than ever.

Tons of interesting things have happened here are just a few;

  • I have been given the finger only once (by some strung-out guy in Eureka CA, who was giving everybody the finger)
  • The last time I took an allergy pill was July 25th (I had been taking 2 a day prior to this trip)
  • Pulled over by the police 3 times, one speeding ticket, two warnings to slow down
  • Border Patrol K-9 dogs sniffed my bike
  • Lost only my pillow and a kickstand puck
  • One stolen item – an empty gas can while I was in the Yukon.
  • Dipped my finger in the Arctic Ocean
  • Temperatures have ranged from -5c to +41c

The question I get asked the most is “Don’t you get lonely?”

My response is always the same “It’s hard to get lonely when I am always surrounded by people.” Almost every time I stop my bike I end up in a conversation with someone. I get asked where I am going, where I have been and how long I have been travelling. Much to my surprise my trip has provided inspiration to other people. The motorcycle gets a lot of attention as it is not your everyday run of the mill bike and the Honda Varadero is not sold in the US. After only brief conversations with other travellers, friendships were formed invitations extended and accepted. Thanks to Skype I am able to talk to and see my family on a regular basis. Since every day is an adventure I really don’t have time to get lonely.

However, there have been experiences that would have been better if they were shared with someone else. Alaska comes to mind right away, with its endless beauty and an abundance of outdoor activities available; it would have been nice to have someone there with me for the entire journey. But, it was in Alaska that I made most of my new friends.

The comment I get from my friends back home is “Slow down, you’re travelling too fast, enjoy the place you are.”

I find it hard to explain just how much I enjoy riding; my enjoyment of the places comes mainly by riding through them. If I do less than 350 kilometers I consider it a rest day.  I do stop a lot, to take photos, talk with locals and I have never said “I have to go now” as I prefer to stay and talk, meet new people and get the local perspective. I have been to all the National Parks on my route, more museums that I can count and if I read one more historical marker I will scream. There are only two places that I wish I had spent more time; 1. Hampton Station in Oregon where I had the best coffee and pie ever, and rode a horse. I should have stayed for dinner and regret not doing so.  2. The Navajo Nation in Arizona. This was one of the best places I have ever been, friendly people beautiful scenery, perfect temperatures and fantastic roads.

There was never a set agenda for this adventure and this allows me to stay or go as I please. If the next two months are anything like the first two months then I may never stop riding.

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New Mexico to Texas

Posted on September 24, 2011 by greg

After leaving the Navajo Nation I headed for New Mexico. I really need to get the oil changed in my motorcycle and figured I would find something easily in Albuquerque. I was wrong. The address I had for the Honda dealer was easy to find but the building was empty and no forwarding address was posted, I tried another address and ended up driving in circles. Since it was lunch time I figured I would fuel my stomach and ask for directions. My waitress was of little help, she had no idea where any motorcycle shop was, or how I could get back on the interstate. She also did not know that it was possible to ride a motorcycle from Canada to New Mexico. That’s what I get for eating at Hooters.

Fortunately they had wifi at Hooters and I discovered that there was a Honda dealer in Roswell, only three hours away. Roswell was a smaller town so finding the dealer was easy. I pulled into Champion Motorsports at 4pm, expecting to make an appointment for the morning. They were able to service the bike right away, impressive. Since the Varadero is not available in the US, it got a lot of attention at the shop, I think everyone had a look at it. It seems that everyone was impressed and had lots of positive comments. While waiting for my bike to be serviced I ended up in a conversation with another customer and local resident, Pete. Pete was riding a little 250cc Yamaha, was soon turning 70 and was heading for “out for a ride” to the Canadian border. It turns out that he also rode to Ushuaia, just a few years ago. Pete is an interesting guy and we ended up talking to each other there in the parking lot of the dealer until dark.

From Roswell I headed to Carlsbad where there were some underground caverns that I wanted to explore. A $6 entrance fee was all it cost to explore some of the most fascinating caverns that I have ever seen. I had been in similar caverns in Halong Bay in Vietnam but the Carlsbad Caverns were much bigger. It took me 2.5 hours to walk the entire underground route, but I was thankful for the experience and the exercise.

From New Mexico I heading into Texas. The ride through New Mexico into Texas was one of the most boring rides I have ever had. There were only long straight roads, few curves and police everywhere. It was so boring that I started to sing in my helmet, painful even for me. At one point in Texas I spotted a large lone Vulture sitting atop a fence pole, I slowed down to get a better look. He was staring at me; he had a smug look on his face. It was like something out of a Looney Toon cartoon. Checking my fuel and realizing that I had 2/3 of a tank, so I gave the stupid bird the finger. The heat and the long boring highways must be getting to me.

Reaching Langtry Texas I stopped at the “Judge Roy Bean Museum” and information center for a break in the day and perhaps a sanity check. The Museum was interesting and the conversation with the one other tourist made me feel sane again.

Today is September 24, 2011, I have been travelling solo for two months.

Links

Carlsbad Caverns http://www.nps.gov/cave/index.htm is place definitely worth stopping at. A person could spend the entire day here if they wished. Very few places on earth like this.

Judge Roy Bean http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roy_Bean an interesting character

 

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Navajo Nation and Monument Valley

Posted on September 21, 2011 by greg

After leaving the North Rim of the Grand Canyon I found myself in Tuba City, Arizona again looking at my maps and trying to decide where to go next. There are so many beautiful places out here that choosing what to see next takes long than I thought. Tuba City is located in the Navajo Nation Indian Reservation and is part of the most beautiful land that I have ever seen.

As I was looking at my maps a Navajo woman approached me and asked me if I was lost. After explaining that I wasn’t lost, just trying to decide where to go next, she offered her advice and assistance. Since local advise has proven to be the best, I accepted her offer. “Don’t take the 264 it goes through the Hopi Reservation, they have tough speed limits. All the cops have unmarked cars and if they catch you speeding they take you to Jeddito and you spend the night in jail.” Given my history with speeding I quickly ruled out highway 264. She continued with her advice. “There is a dirt road you could take across to Chinle, but you would need a Navajo guide to get across.” A dirt road sounded like fun but needing an Indian guide sounded a bit too John Wayne and I thought something was up. I thought it might be a pitch for guide services or a Navajo pick-up line; it was neither, just truthful advice. Then she gave me the best advice ever, she told me I could reach Monument Valley by sunset, without speeding.

Heading north along highway 160 I started to regret my choice, the scenery was boring and the highway was long and straight, until I turned at Kayenta and headed for Monument Valley. Once I made the turn the scenery immediately changed to amazing. As I approached the gate to Monument Valley I found it empty, nobody there to take my entrance fee, what a shame.  I arrived just in time to watch the sunset.

Since the View Hotel was full, I was directed to a campground within the park and was told it was a perfect place to watch the sunrise. I arrived at the campground to find the gates locked, it was closed for the night. It’s a good thing I am comfortable taking my motorcycle off road, I drove around the gate, through the desert and was setting up my tent in no time. My neighbors at the campground offered me a cold beer and great conversation. I slept with the flaps of my tent open so I would not miss a moment of the sunrise, and I didn’t.  

I was the first to ride the Monument Valley loop that morning.

Links

Monument Valley http://monumentvalley.org/

SPOT Adventures – follow my recent adventure here http://www.spotadventures.com/trip/view/?trip_id=279391

 

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Grand Canyon

Posted on September 20, 2011 by greg

After leaving Winslow Arizona I reached the South Rim entrance for the Grand Canyon relatively quickly, and for $12 I was given a seven day pass. I tried to park close to the visitors center but found the parking lot packed and had to do a fair bit of walking, the information center was as packed as the parking lot, so I decided to make my own way and followed the crowd. I soon standing a one of the most spectacular views I have ever seen. It was well worth the walk. I rode my motorcycle around the South Rim several times, enjoying the view and taking pictures.

The park was very crowded and it was hard to get to some of the places I wanted to hike. While having lunch I was looking at my maps, trying to decide what to do when a fellow motorcyclist suggested I check out the North Rim as it is less crowed and come back to the South Rim during the week. Sounded good to me, so I made my way north. It was early enough that I was able to check out Lake Powell and some of the Glen Canyon National Park. I camped in one of the best campgrounds so far, the Page Lake Powell Campground and RV Park , they had a great hot tub and pool was just what my body needed after days for riding in the hot sun.

The ride to the North Rim was one of the more spectacular views that I have ever had, even better than the Grand Canyon. Passing through a cut in the cliffs so high it was almost like a tunnel, fortunately the road was straight and I could take in the views without losing my way.

The North Rim only gets 10% of the 5 million annual visitors, and in my opinion these 10% get the better experience.  I hiked along the some of the trails enjoying one of the items on my bucket list. It was not until someone said “Is that A helicopter” that I really understood the size of the Grand Canyon. We were far above the helicopter and it looked no bigger and a dime.

What I did not know is that the best was yet to come.

Links

Page Lake Powell Campground and RV Park

Great campground, and very affordable given some of the hotel rates in the town of Page AZ.  http://pagecampground.com/

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