Getting my Kicks on Route 66

Posted on September 17, 2011 by greg

After leaving Las Vegas and stopping at the Hover Dam, I found myself in Kingman Arizona at a Route 66 museum and information center.  I got a map of Route 66 and a sticker for my bike. Lunch was at a 50’s style diner called Mr. D’s where I met a group of 29 Harley riders from Germany. They were on a tour of Route 66 organized by Frank Heubaum from Dreamcatcher Biker Tours. Although they are based out of Germany it was from these guys that I got the best tips on Route 66.

My first stop was Oatman, AZ an old style wild west town with wooden storefronts, burrows walking on the main streets and an endless supply of Route 66 souvenirs. I arrived just in time to see a wild-west show of a mock bank robbery, turned comedy show. It was a lot of fun and well preformed.

I headed back east bound along route 66 through the twisty roads that made up this part of Route 66, the scenery was amazing. Surprisingly, Route 66 was not heavily travelled and it was not long before I was in the town of Seligman, stopping for fuel. It was getting a bit late, I was feeling tired and getting ready to call it a night. I met another couple on their Harley and they suggested I push on to the historic town of Williams as it was a rather unique and interesting place. Although it was a little hard to find a room in Williams it was well worth the drive. Williams’s main street is set up in 50’s style diners and western entertainment, definitely a unique and interesting place.

In the morning I decided to head for Winslow Arizona, but first I stopped at the Meteor Crater just outside of Flagsaff. The Meteor Crater was a disappointment. For a $15 dollar admission I was expecting something spectacular, instead it was nothing more than a hole in the ground. There was a meteor crater in Death Valley that was bigger and more beautiful, and free.

My friend David, who I rode to eastern Canada with, got me in two new habits 1. Ending a day of motorcycle riding with a Scotch and 2. Starting a day of motorcycle riding by listening to “Take it Easy” by The Eagles. Getting to Winslow Arizona was important to me.  I arrived early only to find a large group of Harley riders on a tour from Australia. I had to wait a long time to get my photo taken stand’n on the corner in Winslow Arizona, but it was worth it.

The heat has been a little draining on me so I decided to cut the day short, found a cheap motel and called it a day. I plan on grabbing a nap then checking out the nightlife in Winslow and getting an early start tomorrow. In the morning I am heading to the Grand Canyon, another place very high on my bucket list.

Links

Route 66 stretches from Chicago to Los Angles, I rode only a part of it in Arizona.  Well worth checking out if you’re driving in the US http://www.historic66.com/  

Dreamcatcher Biker Tours http://www.dreamcatcher-biker-tours.com/ 

Track me on SPOT adventures – http://www.spotadventures.com/index/search?q=gregsadventure

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Las Vegas

Posted on September 17, 2011 by greg

After settling my score with the sand dunes I started heading for Las Vegas. The ride was pleasant as the sun was shining and the traffic was light. Looking in my mirrors I see a Nevada State Trooper patrol car, but this time the lights were not on. It was the first time I had seen a Troopers car without the blue and red flashing lights!

I pulled into Vegas around noon and rode the strip looking for a hotel. The first hotel I stopped at was very affordable but full of shady characters, so I moved further up the strip and found something more reputable. The lights of Vegas were cool during the day, but at night they were something else, quite impressive. I am not sure why they call Las Vegas sin city. There was not anything in Vegas that I have not seen elsewhere, actually it seemed pretty tame to the things I have seen. The people watching was the best part of Vegas, women in their 50’s all excited that they had their photo taken with a wax figure of Jon Bon Jovi, young drunks shouting “yah, Vegas baby” and best of all a man dressed like a bowl of milk accompanied by woman dressed like a cat, pretending to lick him.

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Follow me

Posted on September 16, 2011 by greg

If you would like to see my entire route so far you can fine me on www.spotadventures.com just search for gregsadventure , also you can click here. http://www.spotadventures.com/trip/search?q=gregsadventure

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Death Valley

Posted on September 16, 2011 by greg

I woke up early to get a head start on the heat; Death Valley didn’t get its name by having comfortable temperatures. Entering through Scotty’s Junction I soon came across Scotty Castle, a rather unique and old castle with an interesting history. I was early enough to get a private tour as no other tourists had arrived.

I went to Ubehebe Crater and then made the long ride through Death Valley to Stovepipe Wells Villiage for lunch. The road was amazing, not a car in sight, twists and turns and amazing views of one of the most unique places on earth. Lunch service was very slow and the food was not worth mentioning. After lunch, I really started to notice the heat and I was not even half way out of Death Valley but with plenty of water I was keeping hydrated and it was not too uncomfortable. Continuing on through Death Valley towards Furnace Creek I was blown away by what I was seeing, this place was amazing and very hard to describe. I took a tour of “Artists Drive” twice as it was so breath taking.

There were some great opportunities to go off road, which I did, but as my water was getting low I did not venture to far away from the main road. After hiking to see a natural bridge I decided it was time to call it a day, low on water, getting hot and tired it was time get some rest. The long ride out was as amazing as the long ride in. I camped in Shoshone and was able to take a long swing in a natural hot spring pool.

At breakfast I met Randy Banis, editor of www.deathvalley.com and he told me of some sand dunes just 40 miles south. I had a score to settle with the sand dunes and decided to check them out. I found the dunes easily and the place was entirely deserted. I rode right up to them, then around the park grounds. Dunes 1, Greg 1 – the score has been settled.

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Lady Luck Smiles – Three Times

Posted on September 14, 2011 by greg

I spent a couple of days in Reno with my new friend Doug and his wife Sara, where I visited Lake Tahoe, enjoyed great conversation and received great tips and advice from Doug who is also planning a trip to Ushuaia Argentina. Doug and Sara are great people; I continue to be impressed with the kindness of people I met during my adventure. (More on this later, today was an eventful day.)

This morning I set out early with the intention of reaching Death Valley. Heading along highway 395 north, the road was perfect, traffic was light and the scenery was amazing. I could see desert mountains, a few lakes and clear skies. I have not been in such desert conditions before on my motorcycle and was in my own world enjoying the view. I took and nice corner on the 395 and suddenly the view changed, I saw only red and blue flashing lights on top of a Nevada State Trooper patrol car. I pulled over and a rather large but smiling Trooper approached. I rarely get out of speeding tickets and was not expecting to this time, here is how it unfolded.

Lady Luck Smiles – the First Time

Trooper: Sir you took that corner back there a little fast. I had you at 85mph and this is a 70mph highway.

Me: 85mph really?

Trooper: Where are you going in such a hurry? Is this your map? (looking at the map on my tank bag).

Me: I am going to Argentina.

Trooper: Really? You’re going to ride this motorcycle to Argentina?

Me: Yes Sir

Trooper: All the way to Argentina?

Me: Yes Sir, All the way to Argentina.

Trooper: I would like to see you get there in one piece, slow down a little.

Me. Yes sir, good idea.

Trooper: Have a nice day.

I couldn’t believe it; I just got off a speeding ticket! I carefully merged back on the highway and watched my speed while continuing to enjoy the scenery. Soon I noticed the signs for highway 50 (the loneliest road in America) and got off the 395 to head east on 50. I passed through a small town and was soon on a long stretch of highway. With no cars in sight, alone on the highway I started to accelerate, enjoying the desert view, the rush of motorcycling and excited to reach Death Valley. Again my view was interrupted by red and blue flashing lights on top of a Nevada State Trooper patrol car. I pulled over, took my helmet off and waited for the Trooper to approach.

Lady Luck Smiles – The Second Time

Trooper: Sir, can I please ask you to stand on the other side of the motorcycle.

Me: Ok

Trooper: Do you have any weapons?

Me: No sir.

Trooper: Do you know why I stopped you? Divers license please.

Me: I’m sure you stopped me for going a bit too fast.

Trooper: Do you know what the speed limit is on this highway.

Me: Well it’s a major highway so it should be 70.

Trooper: At this part it is 50, just ahead it is 70. (pointing down the road)

Me: Oh I see

Trooper: How long have you been travelling?

Me: Almost 2 months.

Trooper: Wow! Really? And what is the best thing that happened to you so far?

I told him about my stop back in Oregon for coffee and pie where the charming woman let me ride her horse. I mentioned about how nice everyone has been to me and how much I am enjoying the people here in the western US.

Trooper: Where are you going from here? (handing me back my license).

Me: Argentina.

Trooper: Really? You’re going to ride this motorcycle to Argentina?

Me: Yes Sir

Trooper: All the way to Argentina?

Me: Yes Sir, All the way to Argentina.

Trooper: Be careful. And have a nice time in the US.

I can’t believe it! I just got off my second speeding ticket and only 1 hour apart. I decided not to push my luck and made a real effort to watch my speed. In a state where gambling and prostitution is legal, the least I could do is slow down.

I continued along highway 50, enjoying the desert with its hard flat fields, rock covered mountains and long straight highway. Suddenly off to my right appeared a very large sand dune. It was out of place, everything else was brown and there to my right was a large white sand dune. I had to check it out. I entered what turned out to be “Sand Mountain Recreation Area”. The place was almost isolated, except for a few people on ATV’s enjoying the sand dune.

Lady Luck Smiles – The Third Time

I was watching the ATV’s on the sand dune when suddenly the front of my bike began to fish tail. I had not been watching the road and was now in deep loose sand. I attempted to control the bike with steering, no luck, it continued to jerk around. I released the throttle and the bike began to tip, so I gave it more throttle and the bike went upright. Wow that was close, or so I thought! Suddenly the back of the bike was fish tailing, followed by the front again. I started to go down, could not control the bike and knew I was going over. I hit the engine kill switch. It then felt like I giant had reached out of the sand and grabbed the bike, pulling it upright. I on the other hand, kept going flying through the air. All I could see at first was white sand, then clear blue sky and my black motorcycle boot. The boot was high in the air. Hitting the sand shoulder first, I flipped completely over and ended up in soft white sand on my stomach. I felt no pain, checked myself over and found no injuries, just sand down my pants. I looked over at the bike and it was almost perfectly upright, buried up to the foot pegs in sand. The sand was acting like a center stand.
A quick inspection of the bike revealed no visible damage. I moved some sand away, got back on the bike and was able to slowly drive it out of this mini dune, to more solid ground. I did a closer inspection of the bike and found nothing wrong. So I went in search of lunch, which I found at a small ghost town on highway 50.

The bike preformed as it always has been as I continued towards Death Valley. Construction delays prevented me from making great time and I am now in the town of Beatty Nevada, waiting until tomorrow before entering Death Valley. I hope Lady Luck continues to follow me.

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California Coast

Posted on September 10, 2011 by greg

California Coast – September 6th

After having a full days rest in Oregon it was time to get back on the road. I started heading southbound down Highway 101 in warm sunny weather and was looking forward to more riding along the coast. The fog was thick and it was a bit chilly near the ocean. It wasn’t long before I passed into California.

The drive continued to be beautiful until I reached Eureka, CA. This city was full of drifters and rundown buildings along the highway. It looked very seedy and I was happy that it was early enough in the day that I did not need to stop for food or accommodation. I saw drifters and pot heads mile after mile and for the first time in this entire adventure of mine I was given the finger. Some strung-out looking guy was walking along the highway and giving the finger to every passing vehicle. I did not take his finger personally and found it rather amusing.

I soon came across the “Trees of Mystery” and for a $14 fee I wondered among some of the oldest and most unusual tress in the world. This forest of trees was featured on Ripley’s Believe it or Not. Well worth the price of admission.

Onwards to “Avenue of the Giants”, a forest filled with giant Redwood trees. This was one of the coolest rides I have done.  The road is 31 miles long, featuring trees over 200 feet tall which shade most of the area making it almost fell like night in some spots. I am not sure what the speed limit is through here but I was able to do most of the 31 miles at 100 km/hr. Passing these giant tress on a windy road really gets the heart racing. I had to slow down once for a moron in a rented RV who stopped on a blind turn to mount his camera the fender. At the end of the 31 miles was a great little pub called “Avenue” where I had some fantastic chicken wings and watched a live band. The saxophone player was an older “hippie” from London Ontario who moved to California during the 60’s and never looked back. My new hippie friend told the about the “Dean Creek Resort”, told me I would “dig it” and I did. The Dean Creek Resort had a giant hot tub which provided a great spot to relax and conversation with a group of bicyclists riding from Portland to San Francisco.

I woke up early and started to head towards San Francisco where I was going to meet with Denis and Dominic, a father and son who I met in the Yukon. They were riding classic motorcycles through Alaska, we had great conversation and agreed to keep in touch.   

Links

Avenue of the Giants – a great detour from highway 101, besides riding fast through it there are plenty of other things to do, check it out http://avenueofthegiants.net/index.php

Dean Creek Resort – they have a motel, cabins, RV park and tenting space as well as a pool and giant hot tub, check it out you will “dig it”  www.deancreekresort.com    

Trees of Mystery http://www.treesofmystery.net/

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Oregon Coast

Posted on September 5, 2011 by greg

Oregon Coast – September 3rd & 4th

I camped the night of September 2nd   in a small state run park and pitched my tent near the river. It had been a beautiful, warm sunny day and camping was the perfect way to finish. Unfortunately the temperature dropped to 30 Fahrenheit (-1 Celsius) over night and I did not sleep well. It was not until morning that I realized I left the tent fly wide open, letting the cold air inside the tent.

After getting some great advice from a local about Crater Lake, I decided to head south and visit the deepest lake in the US. Crater Lake was another amazing destination. The road around offered beautiful views from far above the lake, passing through some forest but mostly staying close enough to keep the lake in view the entire time. I circled the lake three times, once going east bound just enjoying the ride, a second time also going eastbound and stopping for photos and finally the third and final time going westbound just to see a different view.

By the time evening came I really started to regret not staying for more pie back in Hampton, as all of the campgrounds and motels were full. I was getting tired, needed to rest and was going to pull over and pitch my tent in the woods somewhere. Around the next corner  I spotted a motel that had the “Vacancy” sign on and were advertising rooms for $30. Perfect, available and cheap, just what I needed.  I pulled into the parking lot and for the first time in this adventure, all 26,000 km of it, I dropped my bike. I forgot to put the kickstand down! Must have been more tired than I thought. There was no damage to the bike or to me and picking it up a fully loaded bike was no fun.  The motel owner, who looked like Elmer Fudd, came out and said “looks like you could use a room. I have one with a great view of the river”. A great view of the river it did have, but it smelled like dirty socks and I now believe it was haunted. Great, another night without sleep.

I made it to Coos Bay, Oregon where I booked myself into a respectable place for two nights. After visiting the shore and seeing the seals and sea lions relaxing on the rocks I decided that I also needed a full day of rest.

Links

Crater Lake is a cool place to visit if you’re in Oregon, park admission is cheap and there are many things to see and do. The food at the restaurant is cafeteria style and is awful, pack a lunch. http://www.nps.gov/crla/index.htm

A great place for wildlife viewing in Oregon http://www.coos-bay.net/simpsonreef.html

Elmer Fudd http://photobucket.com/images/elmer%20fudd/

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Coffee and Pie

Posted on September 3, 2011 by greg

September 2, 2011  Oregon USA

I find it easy to lose track of the days now that I don’t have to get up for work every day. I did not realize that this was a long weekend coming up until I overheard some local farmers at breakfast this morning. I was heading west towards the Oregon coast along highway 20 and decided that a crowed tourist area was not something I wanted. I needed a change of plan. Highway 20 is a long straight highway through the desert, not offering much in the way of distractions. I needed a sign.

“Coffee and Pie” was the next sign, in front of a small old town style café and enough of a distraction to make me stop. The café as filled with local ranchers and ranch hands just in from rounding up some livestock. I ordered my coffee and pie from the petite woman behind the counter and took a seat next to the locals. Friendly conversation soon started and it quickly felt like I was chatting with old friends. The pie was one of the best that I have ever tasted and when the turnovers came fresh out of the oven I just had to have one of those as well. The café suddenly emptied, back to work for the ranchers and their hired help. Only three of us were left, myself, Wayne the “flammable liquid dispensing technician” (gas jockey) and the petite woman, Rebecca, who as obviously in charge of the café.

Now that my mouth was no longer stuffed with pie I was able to contribute to the conversation a little better and answered some questions about my adventure and the places I have visited already. I mentioned my desire to do something “western”, like ride a horse, while I was in Oregon.  Before I knew it “Bell” was saddled up and I was holding the reigns. Now, I have never really ridden a horse before! I have been to a couple of “horseback riding ranches” where they put you on some old horse, make you wear a stupid helmet and you follow a lead horse around some well-worn trail –not real horseback riding. Bell was a real horse, not an old mare, and I had her all to myself with miles and miles of open fields to ride her. I was in shock, these people did not know me, there was no liability waiver to sign and I had their horse to ride for an unspecified period of time.  Riding was easy and the horse behaved herself, we rode for over an hour around the fields and not so well-worn trails. Fortunately for me Bell knew her way home.

Back at the café I had another fantastic meal, an enormous ham and cheese sandwich and best of all great conversation with Wayne and Rebecca.  I watched Rebecca work on her accounting and really wanted to offer my years of accounting expertise in an effort to contribute. After watching for a few minutes I realized two things, 1. She had things well under control and 2. My help would only slow things down. We agreed that I would come back after my trip and work as her accountant; I would be paid in pie.

As I sat listening to Wayne’s wonderful stories, impressed with this knowledge of Canada, I had a decision to make, stay for dinner or continue heading west. I found this decision difficult, not because I  wasn’t really hungry nor because I don’t know what “chicken fried beef steak” is made of but because I found Rebecca to be extremely charming. She had that country girl charm, a beautiful smile and carried herself with confidence and grace.  I knew that if I stayed for dinner, I would find an excuse to pitch my tent and then would have to order breakfast. Most likely I would end up branding cattle, learning to operate farm equipment, get fat from pie and would never reach Argentina. I regretfully got back on my motorcycle and headed westbound.

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To Hell and Back

Posted on September 3, 2011 by greg

September 1, 2011 – Moscow, Idaho – Hells Canyon – Vale Oregon

I spent the night of August 31st in a town named Moscow. I went walking around looking for Red Square or the famous Saint Basils Cathedral but sadly they were nowhere to be found.   I have been to Moscow Russia many times but this place offered no resemblance. Not yet ready to give up, I went looking for the infamous bar “Night Flight”, but I struck out with this as well. I ended up at the only open restaurant I could find, a Chinese food restaurant on the main street. Chinese it was; food that remains a question.

Waking up in the morning I realize that I am now officially homeless. I sold my home last year and the lease on the apartment was renting expired last night. I live on my bike, my most important possessions fit on my bike. I was told that I have squatters rights in Newfoundland and as long as my brother does not change the code for his garage door, I should always be able to find a place to crash back in Canada. Now however I feel a much stronger desire to move forward in my journey.

I headed south down highway 95 with the intention of getting as far south as I could. Stopping in a small town called Riggins for lunch, my plans were about to change. The very attractive waitress told me about the “7 Devils Road” leading into “Hells Canyon”. How could I refuse?

The 7 Devils Road soon turned to loose gravel with patches of sand. It was a steady 21mile climb with hair pin turns and drop offs descending into canyons. The view was amazing but it took all of my focus to navigate this road. After 19 miles there was a great place to pull over for a photo, but there were 3 cows blocking my path. Cows, on the road to hell? I guess this is why the “Hot Beef Sandwich” was the special of the day back at the restaurant.  From the top of 7 Devils Road you can see all three States, Idaho, Washington and Oregon. Descending back down was as much fun and as challenging as was the climb. This detour from my original plan was well worth it, the best plans are flexible.

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Coeur D’Alene. Idaho

Posted on August 31, 2011 by greg

Coeur D’Alene is listed in the book “1000 places to see before you die, so I decided to make a point of stopping and checking it out. It wasn’t worth it. Coeur D’Alene is a nice town on a great lake, and that’s all. I could have died without seeing this place and still died a happy man.  I walked around, had an overpriced hotdog and checked out the boardwalk. Things I could have lived without.

However, the road around the lake, highway 97, was another story! I get over how amazing the roads have been over the past few days.  Highway 97 hugged the shore of Coeur D’Alene Lake, passed over some mountains and much to my excitement had few barriers preventing someone from flying right off some of those hair pin turns.

An excellent couple of days of riding, life is good.

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