The End of the Road

After 17,068 kilometers (10,606 miles) I have made it from Toronto to the most easterly point in North America, Cape Spear Newfoundland  and to the most western point accessible by road, The Homer Spit in Alaska. 

The drive to Homer was a surreal. Snow covered mountains, rivers, valleys and more wildlife made the twisty roads that often hugged the ocean a surreal drive. So many photo opportunities. Surprisingly I kept encountering the same people each time I stopped for a photo. Stopping at the sign for Homer I encountered a couple wearing Harley Davidson T-shirts. A conversation soon started and I was informed about the “Salty Dawg Saloon” on the Homer Spit. It seemed like a good place to celebrate my accomplishment. Before stopping for a glass of Glenlivet I rode right to the end of the road, where I was stopped only by the “Lands’ End Restaurant”.

The Salty Dawg Saloon has American one dollar bills signed by customers from all over the world tacked to every inch of its walls. Toasting with a drink and tacking my dollar bill on the wall Greg’s Adventure earned its place in this iconic bar. I kissed a cod in Newfoundland and tacked a $1 to the wall of a smelly bar in Homer, each end of North America has it tradition.

Not only is Homer the end of the road, it is also the Halibut fishing capital of the world. The shopping strip was made up of fishing adventure outfitters and fish cleaning stations, with the occasional gift shop or two (ok more than 2 shops but they all smelled of fish).  The spilt was a place well worth exploring.

Deciding to spend the night in Homer I pitched my tent on the beach, only to have the wind blow it away. This is how I met Jane, a retired librarian in her 60’s from New York State. She suggested I tether my tent to her van. Jane is by far, the most interesting person I have met since heading west. Travelling alone in her van, with no fixed destination, no schedule, we were like kindred spirits, but her travel stories were far more interesting than mine.  Check out her blog at www.datatamata.com .  With tent securely tethered, the ocean smashing against the beach I crawled into my sleeping bag after the sun finally went down around 11pm. Waking up to frost on my tent I felt a bit tired from my journey and decided to spend the following day exploring Anchorage, on foot.  

Homer may have been the end of the road but it is not the end of Greg’s Adventure.

 

Links

Celebrate reaching the End of the Road at the Salty Dawg Saloon. http://www.saltydawgsaloon.com/

Posted in Canada | Leave a comment

Yukon to Alaska

 

 

 

August 9, 2011

After spending almost 24hours in Whitehorse, Yukon I was back on the Alaska Highway going north to Alaska. Whitehorse was a great opportunity to get the oil changed in my bike, for some site seeing and making new friends.  Although it is a small city, Whitehorse has much to offer, several motorcycle dealers including Honda and Harley, several museums, a great walking path along the Yukon River, and very friendly and helpful people.  Although I do not like to ride the same road twice, I consider myself fortunate that I will be passing back this way after Alaska.

Going north on the Alaska Highway I faced only one problem, stop and take a photo or enjoy this awesome road. I stopped as I was approaching Kluane Lake to take a photo and got a great shot, only to discover that the scenery just kept getting better and better. This had to be the most beautiful lake that in my entire adventure for far. The Yukon must be a photographer’s paradise.

August 10, 2011

I spent the night at a cabin on the Alaskan highway run by a French couple. Theymade the best crapes that I have ever had. Who would have thought that in the middle of the Alaskan Highway I would find a French bakery?

Reaching Beaver Creek Yukon in just under an hour was a highlight, as it is the most western city in Canada. I have now been to the most eastern city, Cape Spear Newfoundland and today the most western city in Canada, Beaver Creek Yukon.  Unlike the Cape Spear I was not greeted by a raven haired beauty, instead I had Sid, a kind elderly gentleman with long white hair and a curly moustache working at the information center. Stopping for the customary photo beside the “Welcome to Alaska” sign I head for the US border.  Turning back on the on the highway I look up to see a Raven, flying just above me, keeping pace with the bike but eventually soaring off into the forest.

Border crossing between the US and Canada are generally uneventful, especially on a motorcycle. Except today. The standard questions were asked, standard answers were given.  I reach for my passport as the officer begins to hand it back. Suddenly he retracts his hand taking the passport out of reach.

“Sir do you have any pets with you” he asks

“Pardon? Pets”  I reply

“Yes sir pets”

“You mean like a cat or a dog?”  I ask – remember now I am on a motorcycle, with a backpack strapped across the back seat.

“Sir, do you have any animals or plants with you”

“No sir, no animals or plants”   I respond formally but with a look of puzzlement.

“Enjoy your stay in Alaska”

15 minutes later a black bear pops his head out from behind some shrubs.  This was a much  better “Welcome to Alaska”.

Links

They don’t have a web site but the French Bakery I was talking about is located at Mile 1147/km 1844 Alaska Highway, south of Beaver Creek. They also have an RV Park and tent sites as well as 3 cabins with full bathrooms.

It rained all day today so I did not want to camp. Tonight I stayed at Grandview Lodge and Café & RV Park located at  22518 West Glenn Hwy, Milepost 109.7  their website is www.grandviewrv.com  The cabin I have is amazing with a great view of the mountains and glaciers. Café has great pizza.

Posted in Canada, USA, Yukon | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Alaska Highway, part 2

Waking up to the sound of Beaver splashing is not a bad way to start the day, sure beats an alarm clock. Crawling out of my tent I immediately notice a Cow and Calf Moose walking within a few meters of my tent. They are huge animals and seemed to have little concern of being watched and photographed but eventually swim the lake and retreat into the privacy of the forest.

Back on the Alaskan Highway towards Liard Hot Springs for a relaxing soak. The hot springs are just what my body needed after days of riding and sleeping in a tent. Fully relaxed I head towards the Yukon.  Within the first 10 kilometers a Brown Bear at the side of the road captures my attention. Not wanting to be “meals on wheels” for the bear, I slow down and take a photo, never lifting my hand off the throttle.  Photo does not turn out well so I circle back and try again. Better photo, so keep moving.

A little further up the highway two Caribou are grazing at the side of the road, but run off too quickly to get a photo. Passing beautiful lakes, beside mountains on twisty roads is a motorcyclist’s heaven.  Warning signs of Buffalo are not to be ignored. I had come across Buffalo at Yellowstone Park in Wyoming but they were small in comparison to what the Yukon had to offer. The Buffalo on the road ahead of me were huge! Huge and so close I can smell them. I slowly passed within a few meters of a large Buffalo, at least two and a half times bigger than me and my bike combined.

It is 10:00pm just outside of Watson City, Yukon and the sun has not set, it feels more like7:00pm.  I wonder what tomorrows ride to Whitehorse will bring.

Check out the photos below.

Links

When in the area, visit the hot spring for a relaxing break on a long road trip. http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/liard_rv_hs/

Last night I stayed at Toad River. This is a great campground with showers, laundry, RV hookups and a great breakfast.  Watch out for the moose and don’t let the beaver keep you awake.  http://www.toadriverlodge.com/

Tonight I am staying at Nugget City, Watson Lake Yukon. The campground here is more set up for RV’s and people wanting cabins but tent space is also available. Food is delicious but expensive, the showers are clean but on a meter ($1 for a 2 minute shower). A great pressure washer for washing your RV and if you stand back far enough it works for washing a motorcycle (but stand way way back).  Overall this place is good but expensive. The best part was that the waitress was from my home town, great conversation.  http://www.nuggetcity.com/

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Mile 0, Alaska Highway

It looked as if I would ride right into the face of the mountain, but the Rockies were still 80km away. The highway north from Calgary was deceiving, the Rockies appear so close but it feels as if it takes forever to reach them.

 Once in Banff National Park I was again taken back by the scenery, mountains on both sides of me, a glacier river running beside the road and not a cloud in the sky. I had been to this area a few years ago but not by motorcycle, and it seems much different this time. I decided to avoid the tourist trap of Banff and just did a quick drive through. Instead of stopping at Lake Louise I decided to visit Moraine Lake about 14km away from Lake Louise. Moraine lake is smaller, less visited and just a beautiful as Lake Louise.  My next major stop was Athabasca Falls close to the park exit at Jasper. A must see for anyone visiting the area.

Stopping to take photos and ending up in great conversations with interesting people made for a fun day but not one of great distances. I camped for the night in Hinton Alberta at the most northern KOA campground.

Morning arrived with the heaviest dew I have experienced so far on this adventure. Waiting for my tent to dry delayed my departure. I was determined to reach Dawson Creek BC today and the beginning of the Alaska Highway, mile 0. Taking highway 40 out of Hinton, the “scenic route to Alaska”, proved to be just that, scenic. Mountains to my left, valleys to the right, twists and turns in the road and warning signs “Next gas 184km”. Making it to Grand Prairie for lunch was not a problem.

The problems came after lunch. Rain clouds move in, put rain gear on, rain clouds move out, now I am hot, take rain gear off, rain comes, now I am wet.  Rain gear goes back on before I get even wetter, Ok it’s staying on, no its not I am hot again, no dummy leave the rain gear on. I get splashed with mud by a small convoy of logging trucks. See, rain gear on was a good thing, but the bike is dirty.

I finally reach Dawson Creek and the rain gear comes off – for good. I get the customary photo in front of the “World Famous Alaska Highway” sign.  Feeling exhausted from the rain gear dance I decide to push on to Fort St. John and get a room for the night. The hotel has a room, a hose for me to wash my bike and ice for the Glenlivet. Life is good.

Links

Mile 0, Dawson Creek BC http://www.tourismdawsoncreek.com/

Posted in Western Canada | 1 Comment

Calgary

Guard Dog

Motorcycle Security

After visiting family and relaxing in Calgary for the past few days there is an itch to get back on the road. I am scratching it first thing in the morning by heading North through Banff, the Columbia Ice Fields and Jasper.   

I don’t like being idle.

Quotes

Idle hands are the devils workshop.  This has been traced back to Chaucer’s ‘Tale of Melibee’ (c. 1386)

He who would not be idle, let him fall in love.  Ovid

The idle always have a mind to do something.  Marquis De Vauvenargues

Links

Calgary is a great city. I could see myself living here one day. http://www.calgary.ca/portal/server.pt?

Local attractions and parks http://www.banff.ca/   http://www.banfflakelouise.com/things-to-do/summer-adventures/ice-explorer-tours/columbia-icefield-glacier-adventure

Guard Dog

Motorcycle SecurityMotorcycle Security

Posted in Canada | 4 Comments

Live Long and Prosper

July 30th – Vulcan Alberta

Captain, Klingon War Birds de-cloaking of the port bow!

Evasive maneuvers. Maintain current speed.

The War Bird has matched our course and speed. They are charging weapons.

Red Alert! Battle stations everyone!

Captain, direct hit to our shields. Shields down by 20%.

Return fire. Target their engines. Fire Photon torpedoes. 

Direct hit, but only minor damages to the Klingon ship. CAPTAIN, Another War bird is de-cloaking, starboard side, weapons charged.

Fire at will, give them everything we’ve got.

One Klingon ship is disabled; second ship has suffered minor damage.

Lay in a course for …….

Captain! The Klingons are launching their new secret weapon, the Honda Varadero, a stealth fighter occupied by a single warrior. It is firing a new weapon; shields down another 20%.

Evasive maneuvers. Fire at will!

I cannot lock weapons on the Honda Varadero! Captain, we are no match! Shields have failed; engines are not responding, fires on decks 4, 5 and 8. WARP CORE BREACH!

All hands – abandon ship!

 

Links:

The town of Vulcan Alberta has a lot to offer, even if you’re not a Star Trek fan. Vulcan has a golf course, Rodeo grounds, camping, a pool and water park, a museum and the list goes on. I had a great dinner at the Vulcan County Inn and lunch at Subway. Only 105km south of Calgary do yourself a favour and stop by if you’re in the area, or come for the annual Star Trek convention held each June. www.townofvulcan.ca or call them at 403-485-2417.

Star Trek  – http://www.startrek.com/    http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060028/

Honda Varadero –  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_XL1000V_Varadero

Posted in Canada, Western Canada | Tagged , | 1 Comment

Embarrassed in Yellowstone

I tried to write about the beauty of Yellowstone National Park, however words cannot do it justice.  Please enjoy the photos.

What I can write about is my most embarrassing moment of this adventure so far.

Starting out early whit the intention of viewing wildlife and taking lots of photos, I set off on my motorcycle for the park entrance at 7am.  Within the first 10 minutes I saw Bison right at the side of the road, close enough to be dangerous. A little further down the road cars are stopped photographing a Grizzly Bear, safely off in the distance.  Deer, more Bison and eagles are easy to see. As I turn a corner and begin to descend down a mountain side, I notice a small tour bus stopped at the side of the road. Everyone is out photographing, but I could not see what it was that had their interest.  I slow down, drop a few gears and decide to use the engine kill switch to silence the engine and not startle the photogenic wildlife.  

Rolling up beside the other tourists I notice that they all appear to be in their twenties. A quick head count reveals that the women outnumber the men.  Can this day get any better? I have photographed enough wildlife time to have a conversation with a nice young lady. Conversation is going well when a park ranger asks me to move my bike off the road. No problem.

Turn the key, hit the start button – rrrrrr, rrrrrr,rrrrrr,  My bike is not starting. Turning the key off, wait a minute and try again rrrrrr, rrrrr, rrrrr. What is going on? Why won’t this bike start? It was running fine yesterday. Nothing has changed.

My New Lady Friend:  What is wrong with you motorcycle?

Me:  I don’t know. Never happened before.

Lady :  Oh no. We were photographing wolves and bears today. I hope you’re not out here alone all day. Your bike does not sound good.

Try the engine again. Rrrrrr, rrrrrr, rrrrrr.  Ok what is different, inspect the bike. Everyone is watching me. This is so embarrassing. Middle of the park and I am having bike issues and the tour group has lost interest in the wolves and found my situation to be their new form of entertainment. Then I notice the kill switch, I forgot to set it back to the “on” position.  I flick the switch and press the start button, the engine fires up right away!

Yeah!! Good Job! Followed by a big round of applause from the tour group! Some of them were jumping up and down.

Lady: You OK now? Your motorcycle is working!

Me: Yea I am ok now. Just a bit embarrassed.

Lady: Its ok we are all happy for you.

Me: I did enjoy the jumping.

Posted in USA | 5 Comments

Memories of Labrador in North Dakota

I set out today with the intention of putting a lot of kilometers behind me. The ride through the remainder of Wisconsin and Minnesota was a scenic but uneventful ride, I stopped only for fuel and food. Passing through Superior and Fargo I encountered some traffic but not enough to slow me down or cause any real delays

The uneventful ride changed once I merged onto Interstate 94 in North Dakota. The wind hit me from south, pushing the bike across the road. Startled, I managed to keep the bike in the proper lane and continue safely. After all I had experience with this kind of wind, from my trip to Labrador. I thought to myself how easier this was compared to Labrador as it was warm and there was no rain. Dark clouds begin to roll in and a drop of rain hits my windshield, so much for being easier. This is a flat and desolate State and I don’t see a great place to pull off and put my rain gear on, finally a bridge appears off in the distance. It takes forever to get to the bridge and as I pull under it there is another motorcycle, also putting on rain gear. It’s an older couple on a Harley trike and they are listening to the weather forecast on XM Radio. “They are calling for Tornados and heavy rain” Great! I am stuck in the middle to the Midwestern plains and the weather is going to get even worse, unsafe for a motorcycle.

Rain gear on I head back out on the road, dark clouds roll in then roll out, rain comes and goes. Time to get a hotel, the next town is still about an hour away but I decide to call it a day at the first chance I get. That chance come in Bismarck ND with a Motel 6 sign, but no rooms, no rooms at the Comfort Inn either. The staff at the Comfort Inn call around but there are no rooms in Bismarck. Back out on the Interstate I try the next town, no luck. I finally end up a remote camp site on the edge of Roberston ND. No facilities and only one other camper. The sky is a bright red and my campfire is providing some warmth on this cool night. No ice for my Scotch but it still goes down nice and smooth.

Posted in Canada, USA | Leave a comment

The adventure continues

Toronto Ontario to Sault Saint Marie, Michigan – 704km

Looking in my mirror as I pulled away I could see four other motorcycles riding out with me and four people on the sidewalk waving goodbye. It was not how I imagined my departure. I had pictured myself riding away quietly into the sunrise, solo. This was one of those times when I unexpected was much better.

My daughter and friends had breakfast with me. Saying good bye is not easy but I felt very special hugging and shaking hands with my friends.  My daughter wants to meet me at Christmas time. I expect to be in Peru and will fly her down, I can’t wait.

My motorcycle friends were riding with me part of the way on my first day.  The “biker chick” (Ting) who I wrote about on May 8th was directly behind me, followed by Sean on his Kawasaki Vulcan, Jim then David both on the Harley’s.  Ting was the first to leave the group, I hate long goodbyes but the light changed red. Not much was said but it was a nice goodbye. Not one for long goodbyes either, Sean pulled past me about 30 minutes later, waving and wishing me luck before taking the off ramp. Jim and David continued on until Sudbury where we stopped for lunch.

I continued on to Sault Saint Marie, MI solo but not alone. I had the best wishes of friends with me. It has been many years since I have been on highway 17 from Sudbury to Sault Saint Marie and had forgotten how beautiful the scenery can be, ride it sometime. 

Now I am relaxing with a class of Glenlivet and planning tomorrows ride west.

 

Links

If you are ever in Sudbury and are looking for a great place to eat try Buzzy Brown’s at 1984 Regent Street. Jim, David and I all loved our food and Olivia our waitress was fantastic. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g155016-d769482-Reviews-Buzzy_Brown_s_Brasserie-Sudbury_Ontario.html

Posted in Canada | 7 Comments

I can’t wait to get on the road again

It has been less than a week that I have been home and I can’t wait to get on the road again. The “warm-up” trip to Newfoundland gave me all the confidence I needed. Now I have only a few small things to buy, get the bike serviced (new tires, brakes and a good inspection) and I am ready. Say good-bye to family and friends and then hit the road.

The days sometimes pass slowly and others times way too fast.  Washing the bike, packing stuff, enjoying the sunshine and occasionally watching TV, it’s the most relaxing summer I have had in years.

One thing is certain, I don’t miss work.

 

Links  

I have a song stuck in my head. http://th.absolutelyrics.com/lyrics/view/willie_nelson/on_the_road_again/

Posted in Canada | Tagged | 2 Comments