Northern Chile

Enjoy the photos while I enjoy the nice weather in Santiago.

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Entering Chile

 Entering Chile had to be one of the easiest and sophisticated border crossings of this entire adventure.

 It went like this:

Exit Peru – fill out form, stamp form, stamp passport, Adios Peru

Enter Chile – Stamp passport, fill out form about me, and fill out another form for the motorcycle, bienvenido Chile

There were no “helpers” jumping out from behind buildings, no drunks, no long line ups, simple, easy and uneventful. However, there were also no money changers at the border; I had to drive 22 km into the town of Arica to change my Peru Soles and USD. I was a bit worried about being in Chile without Chilean Pesos and finding a money changer, but this also turned out to be simple. I randomly turned up a street and there was a sign “money exchange”. I changed my Soles and USD without hassle and before the engine of the bike had time to cool. Since it was only 10:30 am I decided to ride through the desert to Iquique and enjoy the beach.

Chile is my 13th country that I have entered on this adventure; the immigration stamp is on the 13th page of my passport. I wonder if this is a sign. Maybe future posts won’t be as boring as this one.

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Cusco – Puno – Chilean border

Thanks to some very good friends, Mom and Western Union I found myself back on the road heading south towards Puno, Peru.

Puno is on Lake Titicaca which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. The ride to Puno was one of the most beautiful I have taken on my adventure, but as for Lake Titicaca, I will never know. As soon as I arrived in Puno it started to rain, and rain and rain and when I woke up the following mooring it was still raining and I decided to make my way to Chile.

The map showed an almost straight route from Puno to Tacna which seemed quite short and would put me in Chile the next morning. Puno is not well labeled so I had to ask for directions, nobody seemed to know the way, I always got the same response “It’s near the cemetery, Go to the cemetery and ask there”. Who was I supposed to ask at the cemetery? Zombies?  I went to the cemetery, found neither people nor zombies to ask for directions, but there was a scary looking road protected by some nasty looking dogs. I decided to take an alternate route.

My alternate route took me north along the same road I had come to Puno on. This is not something I like to do, ride the same road twice, but this road was so beautiful I am glad I made the exception. I would ride north for about two hours and then head west towards Arequipa, then south to Tacna. According to locals I would easily reach Arequipa before dinner, how wrong they were. For the first 5km, I was in heaven, beautifully paved roads, twisty enough to be fun, straight enough to make good time. At 5.5km the road turned to gravel, mud and potholes and stayed that way for the next six hours. After an hour of riding I heard thunder off in the distance and I soon saw lighting. I was proud of myself for stopping before the rain started to get my rain gear on, (I usually wait until I am getting wet to do this). Just as I was about to put my helmet on I got pelted, with HAIL, not rain but hail, and it stung. The hail was coming down so hard that I had to take shelter under and abandon building until it slowed down. It slowed down enough for me to get back on the bike and started heading through the mountains again. Riding on hail covered dirt roads is not fun, it’s slippery, wet and cold; and all part of the adventure.  Six hours later, after passing over mountains, snow, hail and mud and lots and lots of potholes I was back on the pavement and still two hours away from Arequipa. It was dark, I was very cold and even more hungry. Lucky for me a restaurant was still open along the highway that had great soup and coffee, let me park my bike inside the dining room and also had a bed for me upstairs, they charged me $5.50 US total.

For the first time on this entire trip of mine, the bike had trouble starting. When I woke up in the morning it was still very cold and I was having trouble breathing, so I must have still been in high altitude. The bike started on the third attempt and never gave me any further trouble. The road to Arequipa was amazing and I saw many Alpaca along the way. It was soon desert again and for the first time in days I was feeling hot. I drifted off, thinking of nothing in particular, just enjoying the ride and what turned out to be several hours later I was in Tacna, Peru, 30 minutes from Chile. I will enter Chile tomorrow.

Peru was amazing! There is so much more to see and do, I will be back.

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It is not an adventure until ……

“It is not an adventure until things stop going as planned”  or in my case It is not an adventure until you lose your concentration.

A trip of this nature takes concentration all the time, while riding, when packing, in everything I do. I am a stranger in a strange land, each day my surroundings change, there is no familiarity. I get comfortable or frustrated and forget this. Most days are exciting, some are boring, all are different and road will always curve.

I lost my concentration yesterday and because of this, for the second time this month I have lost my bank card, forgotten in the ATM machine.  Now I have no access to cash except what I have on hand, which will last long enough. The first time I lost my bank card I went to Plan B, now Plan C is in motion; there is no Plan D.

I lost my concentration on maintenance and ended up with a damaged chain and sprocket. Shouldn’t have happened. The replacement parts I ordered have been stuck in “international shipping” for over 12 days now and this frustrates me as there is nothing I can do.  Fortunately I was able to source a chain locally, but no luck with the sprockets. I am still able to ride.

 I am in a tourist town, Cusco Peru, and find this both comfortable and frustrating.  Comfortable because I can buy familiar things, speak English and make friends easily. Frustrating because I pay 10 times the price as the locals for the same things, I sit at the back of the restaurant to avoid the beggars and miss the views as a result, and say “no gracias” 10 times in 5 minutes to the never ending stream of shoe shine boys or trinket sellers.

But I shouldn’t complain, I have rode my motorcycle through twelve countries in the past six months, made some incredible new friends, seen amazing things and I am having the adventure of a lifetime. Things have a way of working out, I don’t worry much anymore. The bank card will get replaced and Plan C is already working, sprockets will be found, my boots are shinny and most importantly lessons have been learned.

I blame my new beard for my lack of concentration, too much scratching. I have never had a beard before and once I get a bit more cash in my hands I am going to buy a new razor.

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Machu Picchu

When I pulled into Cusco all tired and sore some my crashes, I took the first hotel I found with parking and then got information on visiting Machu Picchu. I had not done much research about Machu Picchu before coming to Peru, I knew it was something that I wanted to see and I much prefer learning as I go, it doesn’t spoil the surprise this way.

I was surprised by two things 1. It was much smaller than it appears in photo and 2, it was not as old as I thought. According to my guide it was built in the 1400’s and housed about 500 people.

I took the lazy way up – by train, no 4 day Inca trial hike for me. Coca leaves are overrated, I bought a whole big bag for only $1 and all it did was turn my saliva green, no buzz no extra energy, so I will stick to Red Bull.

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Road to Machu Picchu – Day 3 – Chincheros to Cusco

I started the day in full rain gear, there were dark clouds off in the distance and I was not going to get caught this time. As I climbed further into the mountains sure enough the rain started. The road was a mess and the rain meant that the road was turning to mud. It was a difficult road to navigate, narrow, a cliff to my left and many potholes. I rode in and out of the rain. When the rain stopped the views were amazing, but few places to stop for photos.

The rain started hard again and turned the road completely to mud. Then came my first accident. Staying away from the cliff and to the inside meant no fear of falling to my death, but this is also where the mud was the thickest. I started to lose control and slipped right off the road and  right into the embankment. Fortunately no damage and I was able to pull the bike straight and drive it back onto the road way. My fall was at low speed so no damage to me either.

About 30 minutes later came my second accident. This road I was on is fairly well travelled at times, minivans, cars, delivery trucks and 18 wheelers. As I approached a bling corner around came an 18 wheeler at a high speed. He did not slow down. I risked getting hit by his trailer and had to move closer to the ditch. The bikes back tire hit loos mud and knocked me down just as the trailer was passing. The bikes rear tire was deep in mud that I could not move it myself. Luckily for me some people came buy quickly and helped my tow the bike out of the ditch. There was some damage to my side boxes, which should be able to be fixed easily. I hit the ground hard on this one and was sore for most of the day.

I looked at my watch and it was only 12:30, still had not had lunch yet.

The rain finally stopped and after an hour I reached pavement. It was smooth riding the rest of the way to Cusco. I am going to take today to rest, arrange for a tour of Machu Picchu and find someone to help with the repairs to the side boxes (I might need to strengthen them).

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The road to Machu Picchu – Days 1 & 2 of 3

I did not want to be visiting Machu Picchu alone. It is supposed to be an amazing place, something better shared. But, everything happens for a reason and given the route I took to get here I think it is best that I do not have a passenger to worry about. The road to Machu Picchu has been a challenge.

Day 1 – Lima to Ayacucho

I was no more than 10 kilometers outside of Lima when my front tire needed air, the tire that was supposed to have been fixed. I decided to stick to the Pan American highway and head towards Pisco before turning to Ayacucho. If I had a problem with the tire, being on the Pan American would make it easier to find help. The billboards on the Pan American are quite something to see, women in bikinis selling Coke, Insurance and vacations. You would never see these types of ads in Canada and had I not been so focused on the tire I would have taken some photos.

The air I put in seemed to be holding, I felt confident after 200 kilometers and decided it was ok to head towards Ayacucho. The landscape changed quickly as I climbed into the mountains, it was tundra like. Large open spaces with no trees, cold and windy and for the first time since Alaska I saw snow. Such a change from the desert like conditions I had just turned away from. I was making amazing time; the road was perfect asphalt and had little traffic. Then my first delay, a giant boulder, the size of the road was blocking the roadway. It took 45 minutes for the equipment to clear the road way.

This was a desolate road, very few towns and even fewer vehicles. I started to get concerned about fuel as I was running low and there was no sign of civilization anywhere. I getting even more concerned about the tire; it was running low on air again. It seems on this adventure of mine that just when I need something, it appears, a sign for fuel, and they had an air hose. The fuel was dispensed by hand and I was a bit concerned about the quality, but as my Dad used to say “beggars can’t be choosy”. Some kids decided that it would be funny to play with the on/off switch on the air compressor, I give them credit, as they pulled one over on me: I did not see them do it the first two times. 

I made it to Ayacucho in the early evening and found a place with secure parking for the bike for only $11 (I asked for a discount from the $15 she originally quoted me). I would deal with the tire in the morning, it was time to eat.

Day 2 – Ayacucho to Chincheros

All the motorcycle shops and mechanics were located on the same street, the first one to open was owned by Juan. You could tell that Juan loved his work and he was excited to have a big bike in his little shop. We removed the wheel and dumped it in a large tub of water to find the source of the air leak. It was the rim, the same one I had repaired in Colombia, but it seems the crack was opening again. There was only one thing to do now, have breakfast; the welder wasn’t open yet. While waiting for the welder to finish, I noticed that my boots were coming apart, no problem, Juan knew where to go and it cost me $2 US. The welder was meticulous in his work, the rim looked perfect.  After inspecting the wheel again Juan soon had it back on the bike and I was ready to go. After a half day of fussing around my total cost was $15.

Ayacucho is full of one way streets and it wasn’t hard for me to get lost. Finally I asked a motorcycle cop and was given a police escort out of the city, full lights and sirens the entire way. The road was amazing and I decided to test my new rim by taking the twists and turns at various speeds, everything seems perfect again. The paved road soon ended and I was on a dirt road back in the desolate tundra. So focused on the tire, I forgot about my fuel. In the middle of nowhere, just as the cold rain started, my fuel light came on. A truck was parked at the roadside and the driver was able to tell me that the next fuel was 40km straight ahead. My gauges told me I had 46km of range left. The tundra turned into mountains and the road became narrow, a huge cliff on one side. In heavy rains I pushed on, not stopping to put my raingear on. What choice did I have? There were many markers and shires to mark the places that people had died on this road, gone over the edge I assumed. I don’t know if the truck driver was wrong or my fuel range gauge but when I pulled into the station my gauge read 0.0.

I pulled into Chincheros around 5pm and found a hotel with secure parking, no hot water and very thick blankets on the bed (its cold up here in the mountains) all for the low price of $7.50 US.

Day 3 – Chincheros to Cusco

This post will need some work, more tomorrow. 12 hours of riding, over the mountains, 2 accidents but finally made it.

 

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Leaving Lima

It has been an interesting couple of weeks in Lima. The parts I ordered have not arrived, I lost my bank card and now my front tire has developed a slow leak. Bank card issue has been resolved, I had a backup plan, parts can wait, not critical, tire is getting fixed today. I did manage to connect with a two other fellow travelers. One traveler I knew from Alaska and the other only by e-mail, nice to put a face to the name. We travelers share a unique bond, no need to exchange a lot of words, we just know. Similar experiences, similar reasons for taking a journey of this kind, we tell tall tales and share a beer.

“I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.
Robert Louis Stevenson

 

It is time to get back on the bike now, time to move, time to ride. Fix the tire today, forward the parts when they arrive, I am getting restless I need to move, there is not much for me here anymore. Unlike Robert Louis Stevenson I will travel to go somewhere.  Machu Picchu, a two day ride from Lima, into the mountains, away from the big city, the change will be nice. I am going to buy a tent, do some camping and reconnect with nature. Time in Lima was both fun productive, new friends, nights out, sharing drinks and laughs with strangers and my new friends, reading, resting and some writing. Writing is calming, helps the mind focus.

“Who do you write for?” was a question asked to me, by a man I have come to respect a great deal.  I have been pondering the question for weeks now. There is my blog, my private journal and some pieces that I have been working on, observations, thoughts under the helmet.  Sometimes the blog is just for fun, I get a lot of hits posting pictures of models in their underwear, but this journey of mine is more than that.  I see a future possibility, lingerie motorcycle tour. Many things are private. Sometimes the blog is for me, sometimes for someone in particular. The journal is for me, although I shared some of it recently, not sure if that was smart or not. A single sentence, one paragraph read without knowledge of the days before, my mood at the time, can be taken out of context. Not sure if it was, I will never know, but I promised to share, I was happy to share. A promise made must be kept.

Sharing. I think life is better shared.  So many ways to share. My blog helps me share, share information, inspiration, encouragement, laughs the ups and downs of long distance travel. People have written to me for advice, told me I inspired them, I was surprised, but happy to share.  I can share through my writing and the photos, but it is not the same as being there. Many times I had wished I could turn and say “can you believe what we are seeing”. It will happen, a different trip perhaps, another place.  Many things cannot be shared from a distance, a meal, a touch, a look, a feeling. Sharing a smile, this is easy. I am a foreigner on a big bike, rode a long way, it gets attention. Let the little kid and the fat man sit on my bike, but not at the same time, what’s the harm, they always smile, the kids always find the horn, the fat man wants to know how fast it goes. The ability to make someone smile, I was told it was a gift. It’s an easy gift to share.

The tire worries me a bit, it is the front. I will have to keep a close eye on it. I have learned that things always seem to work out, just need to be patient and wait. I am getting better at waiting.The other parts are not critical and can be replaced down the road. “The great affair is to move” I want to get moving again, rested long enough, cleaned the entire bike, twice now, helped out at the garage, there is nothing left to do but pack. This is not my place, only so much I can do to keep busy.  “Idle hands are the devils workshop” I have idle hands now; move, ride and stay one step ahead of the devil. Leaving in the morning.

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Dakar Peru

 

Dakar Peru

 

Hours waiting in the hot desert sun, moment of high speed excitement. Took the time between the high speed moments to get some sun and write a long overdue letter to a friend. Pen and paper are never far away (Pen and Paper? Old school I know)

 

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Road Quotes

People that I meet on the road often say some strange things to me. Here are a few.

“Your bike won’t make it to Prudhoe Bay” – Canada April 2011

“You must have really, really big Balls, Amigo, try to not get shot” – Texas – October 2011

“You really don’t know where you are do you?” – Mexico October 2011

“Sorry you got robbed, that’s Guatemala, want a cookie” – Guatemala October 2011

“If you stay until Christmas you can date my sister”. – El Salvador – November 2011

“I just got deported from Canada, can I change money for you?”  – Honduras 2011

“Just because your bike fits on the sidewalk doesn’t mean you can drive there” – Nicaragua November 2011

“Are you in the witness protection Program” – Costa Rica – November 2011

“Your insurance won’t mean much here. You’re a gringo, which means you have money, any accident will be your fault and you will have to pay.” – Panama December 2011

“Did you ever stop and think that what you’re doing is not normal?” Peru – January 2012

“You have a problem, the solution is money.” – Traffic cop in Peru – January 2012

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